Wednesday, October 13, 2010
How to Repair a Vacuum Cleaner
How to Repair a Vacuum Cleaner
Vacuum cleaners typically last 8 to 12 years, depending on their quality, frequency of use, and general maintenance. By maintaining and repairing your vacuum cleaner as needed you can extend its service life and reduce its actual cost.
There are two common types of vacuum cleaners: upright and canister. The upright vacuum cleaner has the motor and beater bar in the same unit. A canister vacuum cleaner has the motor and storage bag in the canister and the beater bar in a separate power head, with the two units connected by a hose.
A cross section of an upright vacuum
How Upright Vacuum Cleaners Work
An upright vacuum cleaner uses a motor and fan to pull dirt from a surface and deposit it in a bag. Dirt is loosened and swept into the vacuum with a rotating brush called the beater bar. The upright vacuum cleaner is guided by the operator using the handle on which the bag and controls are mounted. Operation is simple. Maintenance and repairs are easy to perform.
How Canister Vacuum Cleaners Work
A canister vacuum cleaner places the majority of its weight (vacuum motor, filters, bag, and cord winder) in a separate unit to make the power head lighter.
With a long hose, the canister can be placed in the middle of the room and the power head moved more easily. This design allows larger and more powerful motors to be used.
As with the upright, the canister vacuum cleaner loosens dirt with the beater bar, located in the power head and driven by a smaller motor. Dirt is pulled through the hose by the main motor in the canister. Wheels on the canister make it easily portable. Because the fan in a canister vacuum is more isolated than the fan in an upright vacuum, it is generally less susceptible to damage.
Switches
Most small appliance switches are activated by hand to control the flow of current in an appliance. A single-pole switch is pushed or moved to turn power on or off. Multiposition switches allow set amounts of current to flow, such as a multispeed switch for a blender.
Repairing Appliance Controls
Appliance controls are easily tested with a continuity tester. By placing the clip on the input side and the tester probe on the output side and activating the controller, you can
determine whether the control is functioning properly. For variable controllers, it may be easier to use a multimeter that will show you a change in resistance.
Most defective small appliance controls should be replaced rather than repaired. Once you remove the controller from the appliance, take the part, along with the appliance's model and serial numbers, to an appliance-parts dealer or electronics store to ensure that the appropriate replacement is found. A switch with a higher amp rating or a rheostat with a higher ohm rating can damage your appliance's heating element or motor. It can also be dangerous to the operator.
Where can you find replacement parts for small appliances? First, check your owner's manual to identify the model and part numbers. If you live in or near a metropolitan area, you may have a number of appliance-parts stores from which to purchase. Of course, call them first to determine if they have or can get the type of parts you require. Then take the defective part in for a side-by-side comparison with the replacement part to double-check the match before you purchase it. As a last resort, you can write to the manufacturer. In most cases, they will refer you to an area appliance-parts dealer.
Since most small appliances are made up of similar parts, it's pretty easy to troubleshoot any problem once you have the basics down. However, there are specific tips for each small appliance that may come in handy. Let's start by taking a look at how to repair toasters.
Toasters are categorized as heating appliances. Their function is to develop sufficient heat near a slice of bread to heat and toast it. Breakfast certainly wouldn't be the same without the pop-up toaster.
In many homes, toasters malfunction more than any other small appliance. There are two reasons for this. First, toasters are typically built economically to be a throw-away appliance. Replacement models start at $10.
Second, malfunctions are frequently not the fault of the toaster itself but of food particles that interfere with its operation. Excess pieces of bread broken off by carriage movement fall into the base of the toaster and accumulate, obstructing carriage movement, shorting out heating elements, plugging the latch release, and interfering with solenoid operation.
How Toasters Work
Most electric pop-up toasters all operate in the same manner. A slice of bread, a frozen waffle, a toaster strudel, or some similar food item is placed through a slot in the top of the toaster and into the carriage. The carriage is lowered into the chassis using the lever at the side of the toaster.
When it reaches the bottom, the carriage latches in position and an internal switch is activated to start the heating process. A thermostat determines how long electric current will be sent from the power cord to the heating elements.
The person who is operating the toaster sets the thermostat using a control knob or lever calibrated between light and dark. When the desired temperature is reached and the heating process is completed, the solenoid turns the current off, then unlocks the latch and allows the carriage to spring up to its original position. At this time, the toasted food is easily reachable and can be removed by the operator of the appliance.
This cross section of a toaster indicates the various elements that make a toaster work.
How to Repair a Toaster
Common toaster repairs include servicing the latch assembly, servicing the chassis, recalibrating the thermostat, and servicing the solenoid.
Servicing the Latch Assembly: The carriage and latch are vital components to the operation of pop-up toasters. If they don't work smoothly, bread or other food products cannot be held in position to be heated. To clean and lubricate the latch:
Step 1: To access the latch, remove the end panel by removing levers, knobs, and fasteners. On some models, disassemble the entire case by removing levers, knobs, crumb tray door, and fasteners. Fasteners are usually accessed from the bottom of the toaster, though some models hide them under plates and self-adhesive labels on the side.
Step 2: Once the cover is removed, inspect the latch assembly to determine if there are obvious problems such as a food particle or loose part jamming the assembly. Clean the latch area using a can of compressed air to blow away crumbs.
Step 3: Move the carriage lever up and down to check for smooth operation. If the carriage moves stiffly, carefully lubricate the rod on which the latch lever travels. Use a petroleum lubricant, making sure you don't get any of it on adjacent electrical parts.
Step 4: Check the operation of the latch to ensure that it works smoothly. You may need to carefully bend the latch so it catches properly.
Servicing the Chassis: Most of the mechanism within a toaster is mounted on a frame called the chassis. To repair or replace many internal parts, including the heating elements, you will need to remove the chassis from the toaster shell. Disassemble the toaster by removing levers, knobs, and fasteners, then carefully lift the shell off the chassis.
Some toasters will require that you disconnect the power cord internally before you can fully remove the chassis. Depending on the problem your toaster is having, you may want to replace the entire chassis or just one or two components.
Recalibrating a Thermostat: The thermostat in a pop-up toaster performs a vital function in telling the solenoid how long you want the heating elements to toast the bread. If your toaster seems to ignore your setting, the thermostat may be out of adjustment. To recalibrate the toaster:
Step 1: Clean the toaster to ensure that food particles are not jamming the mechanism or shorting out the electronics.
Step 2: To recalibrate the thermostat, make sure the toaster is cool, turn it over on its top, and open the crumb tray cover.
Step 3: On most units, a bracket from the control
knob will be visible. On this bracket there will be a calibration knob, screw, or nut that can be turned to recalibrate the thermostat. Moving the bracket toward the solenoid switch typically will shorten the toasting cycle, and moving it away from the solenoid switch will lengthen the cycle. You can shorten the cycle if the toast is
too dark or lengthen the cycle if the toast is too light.
Step 4: Close the toaster, plug it in, and toast a piece of bread to determine if the adjustment is correct. If adjusting the thermostat doesn't solve the problem, consider replacing the thermostat or the toaster.
Servicing a Solenoid: The thermostat activates a switch that operates the solenoid. The solenoid releases the latch. So if your toaster burns toast or doesn't want to release the carriage, the solenoid switch or the solenoid itself may be faulty. The solenoid switch is located near the thermostat and can be accessed by opening the crumb tray cover. Test it with a continuity tester. If it is faulty, remove it and replace it with a new switch.
The solenoid is located near the latch at one end of the toaster. To access it, remove the end cover, or the shell. Test the solenoid with a continuity tester and replace if faulty. If either the solenoid or switch is installed with rivets rather than screws, consider replacing the entire chassis or the toaster itself. Riveted parts are difficult to remove and replace without special tools.
Think you've mastered toaster repairs? Take that knowledge and use it to help you fix toaster ovens. The tips on the next page will assist you.
A calibration knob, screw, or nut can be
turned to recalibrate the thermostat
Most small appliance switches are activated by hand to control the flow of current in an appliance. A single-pole switch is pushed or moved to turn power on or off. Multiposition switches allow set amounts of current to flow, such as a multispeed switch for a blender.
Repairing Appliance Controls
Appliance controls are easily tested with a continuity tester. By placing the clip on the input side and the tester probe on the output side and activating the controller, you can
determine whether the control is functioning properly. For variable controllers, it may be easier to use a multimeter that will show you a change in resistance.
Most defective small appliance controls should be replaced rather than repaired. Once you remove the controller from the appliance, take the part, along with the appliance's model and serial numbers, to an appliance-parts dealer or electronics store to ensure that the appropriate replacement is found. A switch with a higher amp rating or a rheostat with a higher ohm rating can damage your appliance's heating element or motor. It can also be dangerous to the operator.
Where can you find replacement parts for small appliances? First, check your owner's manual to identify the model and part numbers. If you live in or near a metropolitan area, you may have a number of appliance-parts stores from which to purchase. Of course, call them first to determine if they have or can get the type of parts you require. Then take the defective part in for a side-by-side comparison with the replacement part to double-check the match before you purchase it. As a last resort, you can write to the manufacturer. In most cases, they will refer you to an area appliance-parts dealer.
Since most small appliances are made up of similar parts, it's pretty easy to troubleshoot any problem once you have the basics down. However, there are specific tips for each small appliance that may come in handy. Let's start by taking a look at how to repair toasters.
Toasters are categorized as heating appliances. Their function is to develop sufficient heat near a slice of bread to heat and toast it. Breakfast certainly wouldn't be the same without the pop-up toaster.
In many homes, toasters malfunction more than any other small appliance. There are two reasons for this. First, toasters are typically built economically to be a throw-away appliance. Replacement models start at $10.
Second, malfunctions are frequently not the fault of the toaster itself but of food particles that interfere with its operation. Excess pieces of bread broken off by carriage movement fall into the base of the toaster and accumulate, obstructing carriage movement, shorting out heating elements, plugging the latch release, and interfering with solenoid operation.
How Toasters Work
Most electric pop-up toasters all operate in the same manner. A slice of bread, a frozen waffle, a toaster strudel, or some similar food item is placed through a slot in the top of the toaster and into the carriage. The carriage is lowered into the chassis using the lever at the side of the toaster.
When it reaches the bottom, the carriage latches in position and an internal switch is activated to start the heating process. A thermostat determines how long electric current will be sent from the power cord to the heating elements.
The person who is operating the toaster sets the thermostat using a control knob or lever calibrated between light and dark. When the desired temperature is reached and the heating process is completed, the solenoid turns the current off, then unlocks the latch and allows the carriage to spring up to its original position. At this time, the toasted food is easily reachable and can be removed by the operator of the appliance.
This cross section of a toaster indicates the various elements that make a toaster work.
How to Repair a Toaster
Common toaster repairs include servicing the latch assembly, servicing the chassis, recalibrating the thermostat, and servicing the solenoid.
Servicing the Latch Assembly: The carriage and latch are vital components to the operation of pop-up toasters. If they don't work smoothly, bread or other food products cannot be held in position to be heated. To clean and lubricate the latch:
Step 1: To access the latch, remove the end panel by removing levers, knobs, and fasteners. On some models, disassemble the entire case by removing levers, knobs, crumb tray door, and fasteners. Fasteners are usually accessed from the bottom of the toaster, though some models hide them under plates and self-adhesive labels on the side.
Step 2: Once the cover is removed, inspect the latch assembly to determine if there are obvious problems such as a food particle or loose part jamming the assembly. Clean the latch area using a can of compressed air to blow away crumbs.
Step 3: Move the carriage lever up and down to check for smooth operation. If the carriage moves stiffly, carefully lubricate the rod on which the latch lever travels. Use a petroleum lubricant, making sure you don't get any of it on adjacent electrical parts.
Step 4: Check the operation of the latch to ensure that it works smoothly. You may need to carefully bend the latch so it catches properly.
Servicing the Chassis: Most of the mechanism within a toaster is mounted on a frame called the chassis. To repair or replace many internal parts, including the heating elements, you will need to remove the chassis from the toaster shell. Disassemble the toaster by removing levers, knobs, and fasteners, then carefully lift the shell off the chassis.
Some toasters will require that you disconnect the power cord internally before you can fully remove the chassis. Depending on the problem your toaster is having, you may want to replace the entire chassis or just one or two components.
Recalibrating a Thermostat: The thermostat in a pop-up toaster performs a vital function in telling the solenoid how long you want the heating elements to toast the bread. If your toaster seems to ignore your setting, the thermostat may be out of adjustment. To recalibrate the toaster:
Step 1: Clean the toaster to ensure that food particles are not jamming the mechanism or shorting out the electronics.
Step 2: To recalibrate the thermostat, make sure the toaster is cool, turn it over on its top, and open the crumb tray cover.
Step 3: On most units, a bracket from the control
knob will be visible. On this bracket there will be a calibration knob, screw, or nut that can be turned to recalibrate the thermostat. Moving the bracket toward the solenoid switch typically will shorten the toasting cycle, and moving it away from the solenoid switch will lengthen the cycle. You can shorten the cycle if the toast is
too dark or lengthen the cycle if the toast is too light.
Step 4: Close the toaster, plug it in, and toast a piece of bread to determine if the adjustment is correct. If adjusting the thermostat doesn't solve the problem, consider replacing the thermostat or the toaster.
Servicing a Solenoid: The thermostat activates a switch that operates the solenoid. The solenoid releases the latch. So if your toaster burns toast or doesn't want to release the carriage, the solenoid switch or the solenoid itself may be faulty. The solenoid switch is located near the thermostat and can be accessed by opening the crumb tray cover. Test it with a continuity tester. If it is faulty, remove it and replace it with a new switch.
The solenoid is located near the latch at one end of the toaster. To access it, remove the end cover, or the shell. Test the solenoid with a continuity tester and replace if faulty. If either the solenoid or switch is installed with rivets rather than screws, consider replacing the entire chassis or the toaster itself. Riveted parts are difficult to remove and replace without special tools.
Think you've mastered toaster repairs? Take that knowledge and use it to help you fix toaster ovens. The tips on the next page will assist you.
A calibration knob, screw, or nut can be
turned to recalibrate the thermostat
How to Repair an Oven
1.Gas Oven: Gas Ranges, Door Gaskets and Burners:
The flame of gas range burners should be steady and slightly rounded, with a light-blue tip. The flame should be quiet and should respond to adjustments made at the control knobs. Most burner troubles can be quickly solved by adjusting the air shutter mixer plate, which is located at the end of the burner tube near the knob controls. Turn a small screw on the plate, slide the plate open or closed, and tighten the setscrew.
The flame of a gas range burner should be steady and slightly rounded, with a light-blue tip. To adjust the flame, slide the air shutter mixer plate open or closed.
If the flame is yellow, it's not receiving enough air. To allow more air in, open the plate slightly. If the flame is high or makes a roaring noise, it's getting too much air and you should close the plate slightly.
Servicing Pilot Lights
One pilot light usually serves all the top burners of a gas range. Some ranges have two pilot lights, one for each side of the range. A correctly adjusted pilot flame is steady and blue, between 1/4 and 1/2 inch high. If the flame goes out repeatedly, or if it's yellow at the tip, it's getting too little air. If there's a space between the flame and the pilot feed tube, it's getting too much air. To correct either condition, turn the pilot adjustment screw on the gas line slightly, as directed by the manufacturer of the range.
The oven pilot is usually located at the back of the oven; turn a screw on the pilot ignition unit to adjust the pilot flame height.
Most modern gas ranges use an electronic pilot igniter to start the pilot.
Gas and electric ranges and ovens operate fairly simply, and they're usually easy to repair, mainly because the components are designed for quick disassembly.
Most of the malfunctions that affect gas ranges involve the supply and ignition of gas in the burners and the oven. Most malfunctions that affect electric ranges and ovens involve faulty heating elements. In this article, we'll discuss how the main parts should work on gas and electric ranges and ovens and how to service them regularly to avoid larger, more expensive problems. The first step is taking a peek inside to assess the problem.
Caution: Before doing any work on a gas range or oven, make sure it's unplugged, or turn off the electric power to the unit by removing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker at the main entrance panel or at a separate panel. If there is a grounding wire to the range, disconnect it. Also close the gas supply valve to shut off the unit's gas supply.
Gas Oven: Pilot Lights, Shutoff Valves, and Ignition Systems:
If the pilot flame is properly adjusted, but the flame doesn't ignite the burners, the problem is probably in the flash tubes that run from the pilot to the burners. These tubes may be blocked by spilled food from the burners. If this is the case, turn off the power to the range and clean out the tubes using a short piece of wire. Push the wire through the opening until the tube is clear. You may have to disconnect the tube to clear it. After cleaning the tube, replace it in the same position.If the pilot has a switch, the switch may be faulty.
Turn off the power to the range and test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the retaining screws that hold the switch in the range cabinet, and disconnect both electrical lead wires to the switch. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal. If the switch is functioning, the meter will register zero. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced. Remove the switch and replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.Most newer gas ranges and ovens don't have pilot lights. Instead, the gas is ignited by an electric ignition system. In this type of system, an element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb when an electric current passes through it. The heat from the filament lights the gas. As a rule, these ignition systems are sealed and cannot be repaired or adjusted. When an electric ignition device fails, don't try to fix it. Call a professional service person for replacement.
If the flame is set too low, adjust it. Next to the pilot, locate a small boxlike unit with a couple of screws in it. This is the ignition unit. The ignition unit could also be located below the pilot; follow the gas line down until you locate it. Turn one of the screws on the ignition. Experiment, turning the screws a little at a time, until the flame is adjusted properly. It should not be as high as the top pilot flame; leave it as low as possible. On some oven pilots, turn the control to the OFF position and light the pilot; then turn the oven dial to the BROIL position. The pilot will heat the controls to the ignition switch.
Servicing Automatic Shutoff Valves
On some ranges, there is an automatic shutoff valve located in the pilot assembly that shuts off the gas to the burner any time the pilot and the burner are both off. If this unit malfunctions, don't try to fix it yourself; you should call a professional service person for repair or replacement.
An electrically operated shutoff valve used on some gas ranges has two facing valves, an electromagnet, and a manually activated reset button. The thermocouple fitting is next to the pilot valve, as in most burner systems. A small amount of electricity holds the facing valves apart. If the pilot light goes out, no electricity is generated, and the valve closes to turn the gas off. On this type of system, relight the pilot by depressing the reset button and holding a match to the pilot. It should take about a minute to light this pilot. If you aren't able to relight this system, call a professional service person.
The flame of gas range burners should be steady and slightly rounded, with a light-blue tip. The flame should be quiet and should respond to adjustments made at the control knobs. Most burner troubles can be quickly solved by adjusting the air shutter mixer plate, which is located at the end of the burner tube near the knob controls. Turn a small screw on the plate, slide the plate open or closed, and tighten the setscrew.
The flame of a gas range burner should be steady and slightly rounded, with a light-blue tip. To adjust the flame, slide the air shutter mixer plate open or closed.
If the flame is yellow, it's not receiving enough air. To allow more air in, open the plate slightly. If the flame is high or makes a roaring noise, it's getting too much air and you should close the plate slightly.
Servicing Pilot Lights
One pilot light usually serves all the top burners of a gas range. Some ranges have two pilot lights, one for each side of the range. A correctly adjusted pilot flame is steady and blue, between 1/4 and 1/2 inch high. If the flame goes out repeatedly, or if it's yellow at the tip, it's getting too little air. If there's a space between the flame and the pilot feed tube, it's getting too much air. To correct either condition, turn the pilot adjustment screw on the gas line slightly, as directed by the manufacturer of the range.
The oven pilot is usually located at the back of the oven; turn a screw on the pilot ignition unit to adjust the pilot flame height.
Most modern gas ranges use an electronic pilot igniter to start the pilot.
Gas and electric ranges and ovens operate fairly simply, and they're usually easy to repair, mainly because the components are designed for quick disassembly.
Most of the malfunctions that affect gas ranges involve the supply and ignition of gas in the burners and the oven. Most malfunctions that affect electric ranges and ovens involve faulty heating elements. In this article, we'll discuss how the main parts should work on gas and electric ranges and ovens and how to service them regularly to avoid larger, more expensive problems. The first step is taking a peek inside to assess the problem.
Caution: Before doing any work on a gas range or oven, make sure it's unplugged, or turn off the electric power to the unit by removing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker at the main entrance panel or at a separate panel. If there is a grounding wire to the range, disconnect it. Also close the gas supply valve to shut off the unit's gas supply.
Gas Oven: Pilot Lights, Shutoff Valves, and Ignition Systems:
If the pilot flame is properly adjusted, but the flame doesn't ignite the burners, the problem is probably in the flash tubes that run from the pilot to the burners. These tubes may be blocked by spilled food from the burners. If this is the case, turn off the power to the range and clean out the tubes using a short piece of wire. Push the wire through the opening until the tube is clear. You may have to disconnect the tube to clear it. After cleaning the tube, replace it in the same position.If the pilot has a switch, the switch may be faulty.
Turn off the power to the range and test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the retaining screws that hold the switch in the range cabinet, and disconnect both electrical lead wires to the switch. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal. If the switch is functioning, the meter will register zero. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced. Remove the switch and replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.Most newer gas ranges and ovens don't have pilot lights. Instead, the gas is ignited by an electric ignition system. In this type of system, an element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb when an electric current passes through it. The heat from the filament lights the gas. As a rule, these ignition systems are sealed and cannot be repaired or adjusted. When an electric ignition device fails, don't try to fix it. Call a professional service person for replacement.
If the flame is set too low, adjust it. Next to the pilot, locate a small boxlike unit with a couple of screws in it. This is the ignition unit. The ignition unit could also be located below the pilot; follow the gas line down until you locate it. Turn one of the screws on the ignition. Experiment, turning the screws a little at a time, until the flame is adjusted properly. It should not be as high as the top pilot flame; leave it as low as possible. On some oven pilots, turn the control to the OFF position and light the pilot; then turn the oven dial to the BROIL position. The pilot will heat the controls to the ignition switch.
Servicing Automatic Shutoff Valves
On some ranges, there is an automatic shutoff valve located in the pilot assembly that shuts off the gas to the burner any time the pilot and the burner are both off. If this unit malfunctions, don't try to fix it yourself; you should call a professional service person for repair or replacement.
An electrically operated shutoff valve used on some gas ranges has two facing valves, an electromagnet, and a manually activated reset button. The thermocouple fitting is next to the pilot valve, as in most burner systems. A small amount of electricity holds the facing valves apart. If the pilot light goes out, no electricity is generated, and the valve closes to turn the gas off. On this type of system, relight the pilot by depressing the reset button and holding a match to the pilot. It should take about a minute to light this pilot. If you aren't able to relight this system, call a professional service person.
How to Repair a Washer Machine Timer
Washer machine timers can become damaged and malfunction when they have been exposed to electrical fusing issues or if they are old, corroded or need replacing. It is essential that washer timers work efficiently because they regulate the machine's cycles. Before repairing a washer machine timer, refer to your specific washer machine's brand and model and contact the manufacturer to find an appropriate timer suited for your machine if it needs to be replaced
Read more: How to Repair a Washer Machine Timer | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6617375_repair-washer-machine-timer.html#ixzz12IMlJJDn
Instructions
•1
Disconnect the washer from its power source. With a screwdriver, remove the screws from the washer's panel located on the top of the unit. Locate the timer to either the right or left of the compartment. Examine and remember how the wiring is set up before you disconnect the timer.
•2
Examine the wiring to see if it has become loosened or disconnected. Only use pliers to gently connect and disconnect the wiring to the timer.
•3
Locate the washer's timer scale Volt-Ohm meter (VOM) and set it to the RX-1 setting. Test to see if the timer works by touching the pliers ends to its probes. Wait to see if the VOMs switch will read "0." If the timer does not move or it does not read "0," your must replace it with a new timer.
•4
Replace the timer by disconnecting all wiring with a set of pliers. Reinsert a timer designated only for your appliance's brand and model. Read the washer machine owner's manual to be familiar with timer replacement instructions for that particular brand and model.
•5
Replace the wire as you noted before disconnection. Set the timer to the RX-1 setting. Replace the timer back into the compartment, making sure all wires are securely in place. Reinstall the washer's panel before reconnecting the washer.
Read more: How to Repair a Washer Machine Timer | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6617375_repair-washer-machine-timer.html#ixzz12IN0jhCU
wshaing machine repairing/lnks
1.Washing Timer Made-in-China.com 2.HowStuffWorks "Basic Washer Operating Checks" Club, Fix-It. "How to Repair a Washing Machine" 04 May 2006. HowStuffWorks.com. ... Disassembling the Washer · Servicing Washing Machine Switches and Timers ... 3.HowStuffWorks "Servicing Washing Machine Switches and Timers" Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the ... Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. ... home.howstuffworks.com › ... › Appliance Repair - Cached - SimilarShow more results from home.howstuffworks.com 4.Washing Machine Timer-Washing Machine Timer Manufacturers ... Washing Machine Timer Manufacturers & Washing Machine Timer Suppliers Directory - Find a Washing Machine Timer Manufacturer and Supplier. www.alibaba.com › Products 5.Washing-Machine - Troubleshooting information for your Washing-Machine It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the ... www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting - United States - Cached - Similar 6.Washing machine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Since their introduction in the late 1930s/mid 1940s, automatic washing machines have relied on mechanical timers to sequence the washing and extraction ... History - Washing machine milestones - Modern machines - Rinsing en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washing_machine 7.Washing Machine Timer, China Washing Machine Timer, Washing ... China Washing Machine Timer catalog and Washing Machine Timer manufacturer directory. Import & Export Trade Platform for China Washing Machine Timer ... www.made-in-china.com/.../Washing_Machine_Timer.html - 8.Clothes Washer Part Categories ... Lint Filters · Motor Coupling · Motors · Pumps · Suspension Components · Switches · Timers · Transmissions · Water Valves · Wig Wags ... www.pcappliancerepair.com/category.php 9.Washing Machine Diagnostic & Repair Guide: Free On-line ... If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced; If the timer does not ... www.acmehowto.com › Appliances › Washer - 10.Washing Machine Timer Manufacturers & Suppliers Washing Machine Timer Manufacturers ★ Verified with 3 or more face-to-face visits by Global Sources ★ Choose Verified Wholesale Washing Machine Timer ... www.globalsources.com › Top Products › Home Appliances 11. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4448734/how_to_decide_whether_to_repair_or_replace_appliances/ 12.How to Repair a Timer on a Washing Machine | eHow.com 23 Aug 2009 ... How to Repair a Timer on a Washing Machine. Knowing how to repair a timer on a washing machine will save money and frustration Washing-Machine - Free information about how your Washing-Machine ... The timer runs the washing machine in a pre-determined pattern. It provides the electricity to all of the washing machine components at the correct time and ... www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-How-Things-Work - United States - Cached - Similar 13.
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